Sweetwall Road
I walked across an empty land
I knew the pathway like the back of my hand
I felt the earth beneath my feet
Sat by the river and it made me complete
Somewhere only we know Keane
With no idea where I was going I just followed the road, squeezing myself into the one and a half foot give between the main road and the wall, to avoid getting a limb whipped off by the relentless cars whizzing by. It was only a couple of weeks since I arrived and I was still finding my bearings. The wall dominated my view from my new homestead so I was intent on following it.
It is an eye-catching, impeccably well-built wall, not a weed or morsel of moss visible to the naked eye where the mortar meets the stone. It intrigued me, but I harboured suspicions about it. It did seem like a rather new wall surrounding what I had discovered was a 200 year old estate. It didn’t appear to respond to adversity or simple wear and tear. By British hand no doubt, I thought instantly. It wasn’t a difficult guess as much of the area had the stamp of the landed gentry on it. Our historic walls did not sit so upright, so perfectly aligned and clean. We had tumbling walls with imperfectly shaped stones haphazardly joined. They miraculously managed to stay together however, the odd stone having rolled away but caught by the moss in situ. Stones? Yes. Some sources say up to 5800 years old. Mortar? None. Moss? Yes. Sometimes more moss than stone. These old stone walls covered some 400,000km of land throughout the country creating land boundaries, like the ones you find on postcards, enclosing sheep and cattle, espousing an old traditional rural Ireland. That is my observed heritage. Those makeshift haphazard walls. Wabi Sabi as it’s known in Japanese aesthetics, the principles of which are ‘asymmetry, roughness, simplicity and the forces of nature’. Also known to ‘bring about, within us, a sense of serene melancholy and a spiritual longing’.
It is then, with a huge sense of relief, that I meet the small brae that turns onto Sweetwall road. Relief for the more obvious reason that no major traffic traverses this road. However, it is more than just the peace that this allows for. On first seeing this road stretch ahead as far as my eyes could see, before being engulfed by the trees either side, it offered a comfort I cannot explain. It had an old worldly charm and endeared me instantly. That sight of the road laid out before me felt like an offering, a beckoning of ‘come walk onto me and I will give you solace’. A leap of optimism and hope hit my heart. And so, through three lockdowns and four seasons this is where I came from that first day in March to now, over 10 months later, walking up and down its 2km stretch each way, for over 200 days.
‘Oh Alexander Selkirk knew the plight
Of being king and government and nation.
A road, a mile of kingdom. I am King
Of Banks and stones and every blooming thing.’
Inniskeen Road: July Evening Patrick Kavanagh
Two buzzards met me here in spring, flying high, swirling in their aikido dance, a distinctive call that would wake me through the skylights in my new bedroom. They would remain in the blue skies over head as I ventured out. Once I reached the brae and onto the instant safety and calm of Sweetwall I could let go. My eyes would meet the stretch of road as it rises and falls again for half a mile, offering a sequenced walk. Sometimes I met that cusp of the brae with an outburst of pent up tears that for the first 2km would feel unstoppable. There were days I met it with a heartfelt joy and the gleeful bounce of a new spring lamb. The road met me with whatever came up; consistent, un-judgemental, and present like a well-trained therapist. I would draw in a deep breath and off we’d go, me and the slowly passing landscape in some sort of communion and therapeutic exchange that only God understood.
The old gate that surrendered to the brambles met me as I turned in and became my starting point. I hadn’t noticed it at first, it was so covered. What went unnoticed though were the other six entrances with their rounded stone pillars and imperial pointed tops, un-brambled, traditional of the times and a punctuated reminder of our colonial history.
The sounds of the invisible brook can be heard shortly after the brambled gate close to another which looks onto a field of vogue-worthy horses. I’ve watched them, I’ve snapped them, all huddled in together on beautiful red sunset evenings with a settled mist and the piercing orange glow of the sun in the fields as their backdrop. They convinced me that they know their beauty and they pose to illustrate it in such a pic-worthy fashion. The brook ebb and flows. It can announce itself as a gentle trickle or gushing torrent, weather depending. I listen out for it as the first sounds that greet me. But I never saw it, it is hidden.
Like a scene from Watership Down the staggered line of bunnies would position themselves like guards of honour outside their burrows along the road. I could get so close as to see their twitching noses pointed into the air sniffing for the day’s news. Numerous nose twitching bunnies is enough to set off enough oxytocin to replace a few hugs. An extra shot as their little white bunny tails twitch in the distance as they scurry back into their burrow. They were joyful company and stayed throughout spring and summer but by late October there was not one bunny tail to be seen as they went to ground. The same with my buzzards. They accompanied me one last time in late summer and that was it. Gone.
I decided the invisible brook was once the location of the well.
‘… it is not the literal past, the ‘facts’ of history, that shape us, but images of that past embodied in language. We must never cease renewing those images; because once we do, we fossilise’.
Brien Friel, Translations
Sweetwall road, according to the few locals I spoke with was originally called ‘Sweetwell road’ due to a well that once existed but has since been buried. This has not been proven in writing anywhere. However, it’s a word of mouth piece of historical topography I have gladly accepted until proven otherwise.
For generations wells have been associated with their healing powers. Hydrolatry was an inherent part of the pre-Christian Celtic way of life at a time when society was predominantly rural. Along with their close link with the natural world and reverence towards the deities and the supernatural which they sensed from it, water was understood to be the source of everything and so the pure medicinal water from a well became a place of worship. If we look back through the centuries these sacred wells still played a big part in the community, especially around the Penal times when Catholics were not allowed to practice their religion and so chose to gather around these sacred sites to celebrate Mass, in secret. Prior to this they would gather in their thousands on a ‘pattern day’, which was a day chosen to honour the saint, most likely female, who was associated with the well, before Christianity descended and took over the sites. In fact it was not uncommon for churches to have been built beside or close to the wells and ancient sacred sites to encourage the people to continue to worship as Christian. On these ‘pattern days’ people would do ‘the rounds’ which meant walking clockwise around a marked area circling the well, perhaps barefoot, an odd number of times. Then dipping a piece of cloth into the well they would place it on their wound or ailing body part and tie it around a nearby tree. It was the belief that as the cloth became a rag and wore away over time so too would the ailment. What makes a well holy? The belief of the people I would imagine.
Original Irish place names had a tendency to change throughout the plantation era whilst undergoing Anglicisation. So my guess is that somewhere along the way somebody saw it more fitting to name the road after the wall. Wall well, history herstory. How one letter can alter the meaning of a place and possibly wipe away a rather large significant piece of ‘his’ tory is something this road has taught me.
Halfway down the road is where most of the action is, with the Sweetwall stables and the main entrance to the grand estate directly opposite, the walled estate. The main ‘traffic’ is for both and generally in the form of a truck with a trailer carrying hay. Throughout the lockdown these vehicles that passed me perhaps once every other walk, drove with intent. The pandemic didn’t stop the rhythm of the farming process or the farmer’s lives, their mission intact, momentum uninterrupted, dictated by the seasons.
What this road would offer me over that time walking its 4km up and back more than 200 hundred times is something I feel immense gratitude for, as if it were a person whose company I sought every day of those lockdown months. I took my tired, confused and broken heart onto that road and I handed it over to the welcoming landscape. I just kept on walking until I started to thaw and my heart started to mend.
‘Listen to the trees as they sway in the wind. Their leaves are telling secrets. Their bark sings songs of olden days as it grows around the trunks. And their roots give names to all things. Their language has been lost. But not the gestures’.
Vera Nazarian
It’s on this same leg of the road that my viewing turns upwards. A cluster of towering beech trees flanking the main entrance in all their majesty and splendour that take my breath away every time. We’ve seen in 4 seasons together and they have showcased a cat walk of delights consistently engaging my curiosity and wonder. Presenting me with their plumage in the summer months, full dome heads of green, swishing loudly in the breeze, to winter, baring proudly their soft silver skin like bark showering the ground beneath with a golden path of leaves. I nod in gratitude and respect to these magical trees. They elicit my reverence. Not only my reverence but they give me a feeling of security, comfort, perspective and awe.
They became a gallery, their gestures a snapshot of animated busy beings whose council I sought; laughing, embracing, dancing, comforting, and listening. The markings on their bark insinuated a hieroglyphic code, each with its individual story but very much a community transmitting ancient wisdom.
I suspect that these beech trees are as old as the wall as they are planted along the side of it which would make them 140 years old. What have they seen? Who else’s imagination have they captured since 1880? Did they hear the laughter of the children from the estate over 3 generations? Did they witness conspiracies whispered at night among the whiteboys? Have they overseen season after season of farming, generation after generation of families both sides of the wall, of the horses even? Did they bear witness to atrocities between the landowners and local tenant farmers? Did they see down onto the crossroads a community celebrating life? Working by day on the farm, by night heading to the crossroads to meet with the other locals for some raucous craic, ceol agus ceile damhsa? Did they hear the stories told, preferably with some supernatural embellishment? With three faery forts close by there must have been quite a few ‘piseog’ shared between the generations at those community gatherings, gatherings that were eventually stopped due to their growing level of revelry. Did the locals stand back in awe or resentment at the ornate horse drawn carriages that made their way up this road to the grand estate? Perhaps it was the ambition of many to secure work in the big house as a servant/maid/butler/gardener.
And who would have visited the well? Was it a regular one used for water? Or was it a holy well used for worship, a sacred space to do ‘the rounds’ over several eras?
Was this road once well-travelled?
I continued up and down this quiet road alone for those 800km taking in all it had to offer amidst this time of uncertainty, of global upheaval and transformation. Sweetwall became my walk without the well, my Camino without the Santiago, my road to Damascus without Paul, my own personal pilgrimage, my ‘rounds’.
It gave me the space to explore myself, my history, my identity in relation to both allowing me to feel into and accept the contradictions. Loving and hating the wall. Loving and hating my own personal predicament. I choose not to resent that which has been ‘lost’ but accept that change is inevitable. Nothing is lost that can be remembered. There is always room for renewal and we get to choose how we respond to events out of our control. It is up to us to reclaim what is of value that appears lost and shine the light on it, while appreciating what the present landscape has to offer.
‘Ultimately the only true history of the county is that based upon the record of one’s own locality. It has been said that human history is a varied landscape, full of lights and shadows, with a background crowded with incident.’
Margaret Bell
I had other places close by also to walk; down by lough Neagh, up to the local forest or further on to the Glens of Antrim, but this strip of road became my own. It was onto this unsuspecting ‘off the beaten track’, safe haven that I allowed myself to just be. I would fall into its open embrace and roll down the brae into its bosom and into what felt like the palms of mother earths hands. I felt held and carried.
It is not a surprise that the general landscape of this county is much documented and celebrated by poets and writers throughout the decades. There was a notable circle of local Romantic poets in the late 18th century, instigated by Samuel Thomson, mainly of the labouring class and contemporaries of Robert Burns in Scotland. They not only celebrated the landscape but documented much on that period in history around the Irish Rebellion, of which James Orr played a part. Orr was a weaver and a member of the United Irishmen, also known as the Bard of the common people. He describes the noise of the men gathering at Donegore that hot summers day in June ‘When to the tap o’ Donegore Braid-islan’ corps cam postin’, The red-wud, warpin, wild uproar, was like a bee scap castin’. I find it hard to imagine that noise or that sheer number of people here today at the base of the hill that leads onto Sweetwall but Orr’s words help me to picture him and that day more vividly. 10,000 united Irishmen of various creed marched up to Donegore Hill and 6000 marched down and home again having had second thoughts on the planned siege of Antrim which invariably was a bit of a non-starter. That was 1798, the same year the Estate was built. The wall was built 100 years later, at the same time my great-great-grandparents migrated to America to secure a large acreage of farmland. My grandfather, then 5 years old, returned to Ireland with his parents due to a homesick mother at the same time the last owners arrived into the Estate on Sweetwall in 1920. It’s at the stables I would meet with the daughter of the last owners and who graciously shared with me some of her own childhood memories of living behind the walls and in the big house. She made it sound like a ‘regular’ upbringing but it was nothing short of exotic to me.
On March 7th 2020 I moved into an annex on the site of large 19th century house opposite the grand estate. The fields surrounding housed horses. I landed into it like an alien onto foreign soil. I held both a distinct sense of panic and yet a warm comforting feeling simultaneously. It was odd and old but new to me and so I had to adapt to this new space. I was a little afraid of it at first when things got dark and quiet especially as it was so unfamiliar. I didn’t know this space, its shapes and soundscapes. I had to feel my way around it to get acquainted. Downstairs in the kitchen of my apartment initially felt threatening, that eerie noise of wind blowing up the extractor fan felt unnerving. I would hurry my business down there to get upstairs to the warmth of the living room. On one early occasion as I had just bought a new set of colourful knives as I started to rebuild my life utensil by utensil and was trying to cut something open in a flurry, underestimating the sharpness I cut my finger deeply and blood pumped out. I grabbed some kitchen roll, wrapped it around it and sobbed at how darn difficult this transition was. This is what happens when you follow that inner voice and leave an otherwise comfort zone. Sometimes it doesn’t make sense and it takes guts of steel to follow. So here I was, with my guts of steel in my manifested country rustic hideaway with a whole new place to furnish, inhabit, and a routine to develop that no longer involved being in a couple. All I had to begin with was a bed and a dismantled identity. The one consolation I had was that my work was a new 20 minute commute with better roads. That was until two weeks later, when we were sent home to begin what we didn’t know then to be a one year lockdown (one and counting). Was I ready for this? Was the world ready for this? In a word NO!
Each time I could feel the walls caving in on me after making the most of occupying myself at home I would hit the wall, literally, on route to Sweetwall for my daily dose of therapy. On an off day, it would strike me, pinned uncomfortably up against that wall with that one and a half feet to squeeze into as it pushed me out against the dangers of a main road, that behind those walls were acres and acres of beautifully landscaped parkland, just sitting pretty and empty, and me on the outside of it, confined, desperate for space to move. Sometimes I found it got the better of me and I’d unleash generations of the repressed rage of my colonized ancestors. FFS this is MY homeland PUSH the F OVER BLASTED WALL!
It is an eye-catching impeccably well-built wall of that there is no doubt, and b r e a t h e.
Each time I would be amazed at how my imagination would take flight. This road didn’t just provide food for my imagination and distraction from my thoughts. This space allowed for my mind and heart to come to terms with certain unchangeable situations. I had to work it all out from here because there was no going back and let’s face it I had little choice. Did I miss having company on this walk? No, this one I knew I had to take alone. This space reminded me to be present, for it is only really ‘here and now’ that we can find the ultimate relief and truth of who we are. We may even find more than we thought possible. I was able to identify a thought process that was not serving me. And so I would hold myself accountable for any disingenuous mistruths I was telling myself. That voice that questioned if I could navigate this part of my life alone, questioning if I even had an adequate identity outside of being part of a couple, outside of all life’s structures that we once knew before this pandemic took from us without warning. I had to release the inner critic, the inner suppressor, wherever it originated from; history, ancestry, religion, society, and replace it with my own inner authority.
Shift Happens.
So hope for a great sea-change
On the far side of revenge.
Believe that a further shore
Is reachable from here.
Believe in miracles
And cures and healing wells.
The Cure of Troy Seamus Heaney

























































